Our August selection reflects on the Specialist Cheesemaker’s Association (SCA) annual farm visit back in June. Whilst there, some of our team were able to visit the make room of Duckett’s Caerphilly, and to see Chris Duckett’s original brine for ourselves. We were also able to congratulate Jonny and Dulcie Crickmore on being winners of the James Aldridge Memorial Trophy. Both of these cheeses are included in this selection. Old Ford, a cheese that is exclusive to Neal’s Yard Dairy, and Brunswick Blue, a cheese that represents the huge impact of maturation on flavour, are also included here. These two cheeses characterise the importance of the close relationship between us and cheesemakers we work with.
Made by Mary Holbrook in Somerset.
Raw goat’s milk, animal rennet.
We are delighted to be able to include Old Ford in this month’s selection. Unlike her other goat’s cheeses, whose production is often delegated to other members of her team, Mary makes every batch of Old Ford herself. The curds are cut and stirred by hand, allowing more sensitivity to the hardening of the curds. They are then washed with hot water which prevents the risk of them over acidifying. The flavour of the batches we are sending out this month is at once fruity, lemony and briny, with a creamy yet firm texture.
Made by Ben Harris and his team at Ticklemore Dairy in Devon.
Pasteurised Sheep’s milk, vegetarian coagulant
Brunswick Blue is the result of our experiments with Beenleigh Blue. Rather than being wrapped and refrigerated as Beenleigh is, Brunswick is matured by us on our shelves in our maturation arches, allowing it to develop a natural rind and the cheese within to take on a creamier texture and breakdown. The flavour is nutty and milky, with a pleasant sharpness from the blueing that is not overpowering.
Made by Jonny Crickmore in Bungay, Suffolk..
Raw cow’s milk, animal rennet
Baron Bigod is made with the milk from the farm’s herd of Montebeliarde cows, favoured for their protein-rich milk which produces a particularly unctuous cheese. Jonny Crickmore won the prestigious James Aldridge Memorial Trophy this year at the annual farm visit of the Specialist Cheesemakers Association. This award is particularly special as nomineees are elected by their fellow cheesemakers, and entries are judged by a panel of SCA experts. The batches we are sending out this month are carrying a buttery, mushroomy flavour with a pleasant acidity which brings contrast at the core.
Made by Tom Claver and team at Westcombe Dairy in Somerset.
Raw cow’s milk, animal rennet.
When Chris Duckett passed away in 2009 Tom Calver took over the making of this cheese full time. The 20 year old brine from Chris’s original tank is still used to salt the cheese., bringing with it a microbial community that is unique to the rind of Duckett’s Caerphilly. The core of the cheese offers clean, bright flavours, whilst the breakdown under the rind is mushroomy and milky. The texture manages to be both crumbly and succulent. This is a cheese to savour.