Andrew and Sally Hattan’s Low Riggs farm is located in the Yorkshire Dales, where for hundreds of years the production of Wensleydale-style cheese played a vital role in the rural economy. The Hattan family are first generation farmers. When they embarked on their quest to make a farmhouse Wensleydale cheese of their own, they made use of cheesemaking books from 1917 and 1947, together with interviews with a 101-year-old local cheesemaker.
The milk for the cheese comes from a herd of just 30 Northern Dairy Shorthorn cows – a breed native to the Dales that is critically endangered. They subsist on almost exclusively pasture and are milked just once a day between Spring and Autumn which makes this cheese truly seasonal. The cheese is truly handmade: the curds cut and hung up in cloth bags to allow the whey to drain away, after which they are milled by a hand-turned peg mill ready for moulding and pressing in a traditional cast iron press. The next day the cheese is bound with locally made, unbleached calico and hand-sewn with a long stitch before being pressed for a final time before maturation. Over the course of the ensuing weeks, the rind will develop and the characteristically buttery flavour will intensify. The Hattans are eventually hoping to encourage the natural blueing reminiscent of the pre-war Wensleydale that inspired their recipe, though this aspect of maturation is still at the trial phase.
